Saturday, March 16, 2013

Galle Sri Lanka: Ahhhh paradise!

A giant sea turtle. Now that's not something you see everyday.

Let's go back shall we...

We arrived in Sri Lanka (to our delight) in a clean, cool airport terminal, teaming neither with mosquitoes nor hoards of people. After getting through–rather walking straight through–customs, we got our luggage with only minor delay and headed out to our curbside vans. Hands down best airport of the trip I'd say.

The 3-hour van ride to Galle was...well...just that. 3 hours in a van. Half of it was spent getting out of the city it seemed. Traffic traffic traffic. But, more regulated and organized traffic than we had seen in our previous locations. After a stop at KFC (Donald Byrd required chicken), we turned onto a highway. The driver announced that we were still 130km, about an hour and a half, away, and I turned over and closed my eyes.

When I awoke the van was slowing down. The thunderstorm that had been brewing in the city had dissipated and I could see stars out the window. We were off the highway now, turning onto a small back road. Figuring we must be getting close, I sat up and watched out the window as we wound and wound our way through small villages and the "back woods" of Sri Lanka. The drive was reminiscent of the treacherous roads up to the volcano country in Costa Rica, or some small country roads in Hawaii I've seen from the back of a motorcycle. Dirt roads, riddled with pot holes and rocks, our van swerving around couples on motorcycles and the occasional other vehicle in our path. Passing a mix of shanty towns and grand estate houses, all alive with activity. Bare chested men in their lungis walking along the dark road, women and children standing in the glow of porch lights faintly visible from the road. And those stars! Guiding us along to the coast.

When we finally arrived, it was clear why we had driven so far, and through such terrain to get here. Chaaya Tranz is a treasure, buried far out of reach of the faint of heart. What a paradise! Even before seeing it in the light this morning, I knew we had found a gem. The magical draw of the evening here, can only be out-shined by the pure beauty of the sun and sand in the daylight.

This morning I had coffee on my terrace, overlooking the pool and then breakfast with Mr. Byrd steps from the ocean, before heading to the waterside to sit in the sun. Hours later, here I sit...one more ocean swam in, a pina colada in my hand, and my blinding seattle skin slowly fading to a rosey equatorial glow. I heard some commotion down on the beach and went to check out what the crowd had gathered for. There, in the wading depth shallows, people swarming around to get a look, showing off as if it knew this was its moment to make a few memories, was a giant sea turtle. Now that's not something you see everyday.

Thank you Sri Lanka.


Dhaka....through the eyes of...

A few memorable moments in Dhaka, captured on film:

Dinner at Lubna's (director of Shadhona Dance) beautiful house!

Lubna's mother...one of the most amazing women I've ever met.

Garden lights at Lubna's.

 Spectrum and Shadhona


Shadhona dancers perform their workshop choreography at their Shadhona studio on the final day....which just happened to be a Hartal (strike) day. It actually worked out great. This is where we started our journey, and this is where it ended. They were amazing! Such a fantastic group and a phenomenal experience!


With Lubna!



Spectrum performance at Shilpakala Academy! 

 Shadou Mintrone in Soapbox, view from above. 

 Vincent Michael Lopez in Soapbox

Spectrum takes a bow!

 With the Ambassador and embassy staff after the performance. 

Tech crew!

 The awesome crew that made it all happen!

 Donald and I in our Bangladeshi "swag"!

 After being showered with gifts, Spectrum departs Bangladesh. Such an incredible experience that we will never forget! Thank you Shadhona!! We had such a blast!


Dhaka Dances

After being sick in bed for three full days here in Bangladesh, I pulled myself out of my hotel room this morning and came down to Shilpakla Academy with the company. I still feel pretty yucky, and am having a hard time even just sitting in a chair in the corner, but I'm so glad I came. There is something so inspiring about watching people dance. Especially when they are experiencing something for the first time, or learning something different from what they innately know.

Shadou and Donald Jones have been teaching this Jazz class for 5 days now. There are about 15 students here today, men and women. All of them auditioned for this workshop, and a few are dancers from the Shadhona dance company, our local partner. Their feet are mostly flexed, and their knees are mostly bent, and it's obvious our Western ways haven't sunk in yet…and probably won't in our short time here. But it's actually kinda great to see them follow the Spectrum dancers in a drag turn, and turn it into something completely different. Make it entirely their own. These kids are dancers. Different and unique in their technique and experience, with a refreshing sense of enthusiasm and energy for trying something new. And man do they LIVE in this Jazz stuff. :)

There's one young man, Hanif, who I find particularly adorable. Imagine a Bangladeshi Fred Astaire. All the poise and grace of someone who has been dancing far beyond his years. And he's just so cute! I will mention Fred to him and tell him I expect to see him in America someday.


What a great day in Dhaka. I can tell that this part of the trip is going to be much more about the people we meet than the places we go or the stuff we do outside of the program. 

Friday, March 1, 2013

Nepal #2: Pictures from Kathmandu and Lalitpur

Well as I'm sure you can guess, here in Nepal having full bars on your wifi doesn't mean much. But I finally got some more pictures uploaded...here's some of the sights of the city!

Our first glimpses of the city, Day 1









Shangri-La Restaurant for Dinner night #1


Out on the town in Thamel with Rico and Russ!

 Some serious Seattle music fans here!

Live band at the bar

Houses in Lalitpur


 And a cow...




 Staute in Thamel

 New Orleans Cafe and Wine Bar for Lunch!




Our fortress


 Panoramic view of Kathmandu Valley from the rooftop pool






 Sunset over the city



More to come!!!



Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Nepal #1: 30 hours by shuttles, planes, buses, and vans...and finally....we arrive...back in America?


We departed from Spectrum on Thursday afternoon, after completing a mad rush to get the costumes washed and packed from Wednesday's dress rehearsal in Tacoma. But we made it! Down to the last second Doris Black-Dance was stuffing little bits of fabric and lengths of thread into my suitcase, just to be sure we had everything we might possibly need on the other side of the world! Thanks Doris!!

We shoved our stuff into a way-too-small Shuttle Express and embarked on our journey. After an hour and a half delay at Sea-Tac, the wheels on our 747 lifted, and we said goodbye to the West Coast and the Western World for a month. I planned ahead, dutifully, and washed down my ibuprofen, tylenol, melatonin and muscle relaxers with a glass of wine. Needless to say....I woke up in England. I think I might have finally figured out this international travel thing!


In Heathrow, we sat in the airport, drank what would probably be our last Starbucks for a few weeks, and tried to catch up on some work. Once our gate was assigned, we walked past all the wonderful English shops (too much packed and not enough space on this trip to buy anything extra this early on), and arrived at our gate only to learn about another short delay. Well, when dancers have been on a flight for 9 hours already, and are looking ahead to another 8 hours of sitting still....this is kinda what happens:


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Our plane eventually departed, just in time for the sleepy to set in again, and another 4 hours of zzzz's, 2 movies, and some pretty intense turbulence later, we touched down in India. A first for us all, and quite the change of scenery. Not much to tell about India. We were behind schedule after our 2 delays, so we basically sat at the International Transfer counter, then ran through security and to our gate (twice, because it got reassigned mid-rush).



But I was able to snap this picture as we headed out, much to the dismay of the plane-side agents...who apparently don't like you to take pictures of their planes? Nepal here we come!!!



Arriving in Nepal was like entering a whole other world. We could see the city as we flew in, and it reminded us all of how MUCH we weren't in the U.S. anymore. It might not technically be a third-world nation, but it's probably the closest most of us have been to. I'll let the pictures pretty much speak for themselves. We got through customs without any problems, and were in and out of the airport in less than an hour–thanks to the help of our very handy Embassy officer Cain Harrelson. 15 of 16 bags made it, including mine, another first! Unfortunately, that meant we had to get 15 dancer-sized pieces of luggage into our van...but we made it work, and headed out into the busy streets of Kathmandu.



I use the term "streets" lightly. The roads here in Nepal are more like trails than "Western" streets. Mostly unpaved, very narrow, and very crowded. The day we arrived, Saturday, is the one weekend day here in Nepal, so the traffic was "light" we learned. We also learned about a street widening initiative that had been put into action. Because of this, a large majority of streets were flanked by debris. Buildings that have been torn down to make way for the wider roads, houses that honestly looked like they had been cut in half, businesses that were all but covered by piles of bricks and rubble. Definitely a sight. I guess it can be compared to road construction by U.S. standards, but on a whole other level. All of this is amplified by the fact that there are little to no traffic laws in Nepal. They technically drive on the left side of the road...but only when there's room. Other wise, it's pretty much a free-for-all. And the scariest thing is that cars, motorcycles, scooters, bicycles, and pedestrians all share the same narrow paths...no sidewalks or bus lanes here. You quickly learn that the expectation of safety and the concept of "personal space" are much different here.





 So imagine our surprise when, after traveling through the chaos for about 30 minutes...we turned the corner, and all of a sudden, we're right back in America! The Radisson hotel is an American hotel by any standard. Other than the very polite men in military uniforms greeting you at the door, and the Nepali cuisine served in the buffet restaurant...it's pretty much just like home. I think we all felt a little silly walking into such luxury after driving across town. It's a very humbling experience to see how Nepalis live. I'll be honest, it's nice to have a wifi connection, and hot water for showers. I probably wont use the flat-screen TV or break into the mini-bar....but, hey, all the comforts of home right?


So, that's the story of how we got to Nepal!! Stay tuned for lots more pictures and videos from our trip. Sorry it's taken me so long to get any of this up, but even in the American hotel, internet is a little unreliable, and there are only so many hours in the day. Here are some final pics of the view from our hotel on the day we arrived. Welcome to South Asia Spectrum Dance!! Namaste.